Nashville is something of a paradox—it’s both musical and historical, kitschy and refined. I guess what you find is what expectations you bring to the city. We’ll see what that says about me.  I love this city and I try to visit at least once a year.  I usually stay downtown in a hotel just off Broadway.  Let me walk you through my typical first afternoon and evening in Nashville.

When I get to Nashville the first thing I do is take the short walk to Broadway and head for the Ernest Tubb Record Shop. The shop has been open for 61 years. Focusing on country and bluegrass music, they sell books, CDs, DVDs, old photos and posters, songbooks and souvenirs.  You could easily spend an hour looking at the photos on the wall and browsing through the music. On weekends you might catch some live music. They have a small stage in the back and every Saturday night there’s a midnight jamboree. They also broadcast America’s second-longest running radio show after the Grand Ol’ Opry, and top performers from today and yesterday come to play.  Every Sunday the “Nashville Cowboy Church” broadcast reaches millions of listeners in the United States and more than 100 other countries.

When you leave the Ernest Tubb Record Shop turn right, head to the corner (4th and Broadway) and cross over to the other side of the street.  Gruhn Guitars is another highlight for musicians and music lovers. This musical Mecca opened in 1970. It’s fairly large and is filled floor to ceiling with new and used instruments. Typically, you’ll see musicians getting the chance to play instruments they’ve always wanted to try.  You also can find songbooks, picks, straps and other musical supplies. 

After an hour at this playground, you may be getting hungry, so take a left and head for Jack’s Bar-B-Que just a couple of doors down.  Look for the sign with the flying pigs. If you like barbeque and home-cooked vegetables at a reasonable price, then Jack’s will fit the bill.

Now it’s time to move on to another Nashville highlight – Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge. It opened in 1960 and became famous as a hangout for musicians after they finished their performances at the Grand Ol’ Opry (which is just around the corner). You can enjoy country music here from 10:00 a.m. through 2:00 a.m. every night. Check out the schedules for performances both downstairs and upstairs. Some nights there are auditions or open mic performances. Stop in and enjoy a beverage and some music.

After hitting Tootsie’s it’s time to pay homage to the home of Nashville’s musical history. Take a left, head up to Fifth Avenue, turn right and about one-half block up on the right is Ryman Auditorium . The Grand Ol’ Opry started performing there in 1943 and continued for the next 31 years. I’ve taken the tour; it’s very enjoyable and gives you the flavor of old-time radio and its stars. At $16.25 for the full tour, it is a little pricey, but if you are a fan it is worth the money. There are still performances at the Ryman. It is an intimate theater with a good view from most seats. However, the church bench-style seating is a trifle cramped and the acoustic quality varies depending on where your sit.  Tip:  The last row in the balcony has a good view but lousy acoustics.

After you have hit the Ryman, Tootsies, Gruhn’s and Ernest Tubb’s your opportunities for entertainment are just beginning. You could stop in the doorway of most of the storefronts on Broadway and find a bar and a band. To top off a day of a day of sightseeing I would suggest you head to The Station Inn. Open seven days a week this is the venue for bluegrass music since 1974. It is a small building, totally unpretentious. When the doors open at 7 p.m., people are already lined up to see their favorite performers (reservations aren’t accepted).  It is so small that all of the seats are good, but my favorite place to sit is at one of the front tables only a few feet away from the stage. While waiting for the performance to start you can listen to the band’s sound check, get to know your tablemates and enjoy typical bar fare like pizza, hotdogs, popcorn, soft drinks and beer. For special performances the start times may vary – check their schedule before heading over.

That’s a full day of activity for me. What do you do when you go to Nashville?