I wouldn’t be surprised if the River Walk (Paseo del Río in Español) is San Antonio’s most touristy spot. At least it sure seems like San Antonio’s most touristy spot. But sometimes that’s a good thing, and I found myself enjoying this lushly landscaped promenade more than I thought I would.

The San Antonio River has provided a lifeline for the people of south Texas since the mid-18th century. It sustained the five missions (including Mission San Antonio de Valero, better known as The Alamo) that were established here between 1718 and 1731; water for drinking, irrigation and livestock was diverted into stone-lined ditches, or acequias. As the city grew it was repeatedly inundated by the river during heavy rains until flood control measures were taken beginning in the 1920s. As an alternative to paving over the river and turning it into an underground storm drain, a San Antonio architect’s plan that provided for flood prevention as well as beautification and commercial development was carried out. That’s all you really need to know.

“River” is something of a misnomer, at least visually. This looks more like a canal. The water doesn’t so much flow as lap gently. It’s shallow and you can’t see the bottom. I can’t vouch for its cleanliness, but I didn’t notice any untoward aromas. I was here in late April, however, before the onset of the formidable Texas heat. Perhaps it’s not as pleasant in the dog days of August; has anyone out there experienced River Walk at the height of summer?

What I really liked were the trees and the landscaping. The walkways are shaded by tall cypresses and pecan trees. There’s lots of shrubbery, palms, tropical-looking plants like hibiscus and split-leaf philodendron, and even a couple of waterfalls. The arched stone pedestrian bridges are picturesque, and some of the water views are quite lovely. Pigeons and quacking mallards are your constant companions. Another thing I liked is that it’s below street level. You’re pretty much removed from the city’s noise and traffic (not that downtown San Antonio is cacophonous on the order of, say, New York). But it’s definitely quieter. And there are plenty of stairway access points, which makes it easy to come and go as you please.

I quickly learned the layout. All told, River Walk winds about 2.5 miles. The most congested section is between RiverCenter Mall and St. Mary’s Street; most of the restaurants are located along this stretch. The farther north you walk the more serene it gets. You can go as far as Lexington Street before the paved walking path ends and you have to backtrack. You also can follow River Walk south to the King William Historic District. After a couple of exploratory jaunts I found my favorite spot: three log benches just before the Navarro Street Bridge (near the Mexican Consulate). The walkway is wider here, you’re away from the restaurants, birds chirp and a constant breeze rustles through the tall cypresses. I spent relaxation time here watching the cruise boats go by.

These boats are actually barges operated by Rio San Antonio Cruises, and they offer a 40-minute narrated ride. You’ll learn some local history, and the scenery is pretty. I also saw a couple of boats around dinner time that had long tables set with big bowls of chips, salsa and guacamole. I almost considered jumping on board.

Other than take a river cruise, there really isn’t much to do. But an early morning walk is delightful because the air is cooler, the restaurants and shops haven’t yet opened and it’s much less crowded.  And here’s how you work up an appetite for dinner: Take a stroll and casually check out the waterside tables as you pass by. I guarantee that after one pass through this gauntlet you will be starving. My own personal recommendations—based on a completely unscientific evaluation of what was on diners’ plates as I gave them the hungry eye—would include Boudro’s on the Boardwalk (the guac looked really good), Rio Rio Cantina (Mexican, my favorite!) and The County Line (barbecue, another favorite of mine). 

If you’re a visitor, you need to experience River Walk at least once. And if you live here, you don’t need my advice because you’ve been there, done that. River Walk runs through the center of downtown. Note: If you’re planning a San Antonio vacation, keep in mind that the river is drained during the first week in January.