Spring Break isn’t what it used to be . . . maturity and two children have taken care of that. But a car trip to the Keys from our home base in Central Florida seemed relatively uncomplicated – six hours or so, and you’re there, no airport/luggage hassles, just throw the beach/snorkeling stuff in the van and go. Both Lindsey, 14, and Dane, 9, are experienced travelers, but this was the first time in the Keys for them.

I’m not so spontaneous that I’ll go anyplace in the busy season without a room reservation, though.  AAA.com turned up the remaining lodging choices in the upper Keys (two weeks before our break) – a few chains and the Islander, a Three Diamond independent in Islamorada that looked good – oceanfront, nice amenities, an old-Florida-style but renovated property with positive reviews. At $180/night after the AAA discount, it was reasonable for the Keys at that time of year.

The drive was an easy one, just down the Florida Turnpike to its end where it connects with U.S.1, also known as the Overseas Highway in the Keys. I talked to the kids about how the ‘Mile Marker’ system is used for locations down there, starting with zero in Key West and going up to 127 just south of Florida City. Knowing the Mile Marker address is better than looking for street numbers and it’s simple to calculate distance between places. They ended up ‘doing the math’ everywhere we went. (See this AAA Drive Trip for more details.)

The Islander (Mile Marker 82) turned out to be fine, lots of spread-out buildings on beautiful grounds directly on the Atlantic. Accommodations included a small kitchen, smaller bathroom, but a very large screened porch with an ocean view and a nearby hammock. The two pools and hot tub were a hit, as was the poolside tiki bar, which I believe are required by law in the Keys. The beach (like most in this area) was rocky, though I was prepared for that. If a swimable beach is a priority, go just about anywhere else in Florida.

Of course, we had to visit Robbie’s of Islamorada (MM78) to feed the famous tarpon. Robbie’s is basically a small charter-fishing operation, but it’s ‘famous’ for the tarpon that live around the docks, lured by the bait fish thrown in by tourists. ‘Admission’ is $1 per person; fish is $2 a bucket. Three tickets, two buckets . . . Hard to remember the last time the three of us did anything for $7. The tarpon were impressive, masses of huge blue-green fish that leap out of the water for the food.

Unfortunately, the resident pelicans were also impressive, trying for their share of the handout by walking straight up to the kids. Standing up, they’re disconcertingly large, and their intense look and large beaks led my daughter to decide she’d just as soon be texting in the car. Another visitor suggested that the pelicans could be ‘shooed’ with a large net on the dock, which my son promptly grabbed and went into boy-with-weapon mode. I got the net away from him before the People for the Ethical Treatment of Pelicans were called, knocking over the bucket of stinky fish in the process. Okay, time to go.

The next day, it was time for the big adventure – Theater of the Sea, (MM 84.5) where I had reserved a dolphin swim for the three of us.  It had been a dream of my daughter’s for awhile (I actually did a dolphin swim as a child, also in the Keys) and my son seemed excited about it too. I did a lot of research before making the reservation – there were some other choices for dolphin swims in the area and at around $175 per person for a 30-minute swim, it was worth my time to try to figure out the best option. The other local places seemed to put more emphasis on in-depth education, while TOTS made the swim experience part of the day at the small but varied attraction, including sea lion, dolphin and parrot shows, a boat ride and exhibits.

We arrived early enough to check out some of the park. After Central Florida's attractions, we weren’t too impressed but it was pleasant enough. Then it was time for our dolphin swim orientation, where we learned how the trainers will signal the dolphins to interact with us in the water and what we should do. (Some dolphin swims are very structured; others insist that the dolphins must initiate any contact. This was a mix of the two.)

Then we were in the water with two huge – around 600 pounds each – male dolphins. It was the three of us, along with two teenage sisters from Great Britain and a mom and son from Michigan. The trainers did a great job, signaling them to swim by us and getting them (us?) used to the idea. We played ball, got towed around by hanging onto the dorsal fin and posed for pictures. And I went for a ‘belly ride.’ The dolphin, after a hand signal from his trainer, rolled over on his back and I climbed on. Dolphins, for the record, feel like warm wet velvet. He took off, me holding on against the powerful propulsion and inhaling salt water, for a trip around the lagoon. Amazing.

Lindsey was having a great time, but Dane was a little hesitant. At one point, he and his sister held up a big ring and the dolphin jumped through it. Thinking he was done, Dane dropped the ring, but the big dolphin came around for another jump – and ended up sideswiping him. He wasn't hurt – my son that is – but definitely freaked out. I saw the tears coming and for a second the very unmaternal thought of ‘don’t lose it now, I’ve paid too much for this’ went through my head, then reason returned. We got out, he calmed down and the trainer was very nice, encouraging him back in the water for another activity. We got more than our allotted time  - closer to an hour  - and it was an unforgettable experience.

That evening, we ended up at Lorelei’s, a gulf front restaurant across from the hotel. The blackened fresh catch was good, the margarita salty, the sunset postcard material. The kids explored the water’s edge and I anticipated the next day’s catamaran snorkeling cruise to the John Pennekamp State Park coral reef. Then I heard my son’s small voice next to me.

“I can’t believe you signed me up for that dolphin thing.”

-Laurie Peterson