This is the fifth and final in a series of posts about visiting 12 national parks in Utah and Arizona over 9 days.

In the morning, I went out early with my camera. We’d found our cabin in the dark, not realizing it was only a few steps away from the edge. Violent winds had swept across the Arizona desert that week, kicking up a storm of red dust, so the canyon itself was hazy—still magnificent, but not as vivid as the postcards. For a lazy photographer like me, it was a fine excuse to put away the tripod. The utter stillness was heavenly.

Hikers filed past on their way to the Bright Angel Trail. This famous route descends six miles and 3,000 vertical feet to Plateau Point (which is still two miles above the Colorado River). The park service spends a good amount of time rescuing people who underestimate the rigors of the trip. We’d learned our lesson at Bryce Canyon: what goes down must come up.

A squirrel sat on the wall and posed for pictures, clearly expecting a handout. A gang of tattooed bikers passed me on the way to the El Tovar hotel; one man had a Rottweiler on a leash and a Chihuahua in his other arm. The little dog was wearing a leather vest. A couple in matching Lycra shorts hurried by, flailing their walking sticks, arguing in German. In the distance, a pack mule brayed. (He was probably tired too.) The smell of diesel fuel wafted on the breeze from idling buses.

The Bright Angel Restaurant redeemed itself with breakfast, serving up stacks of blueberry pancakes and frothy cups of hot chocolate. We plotted the itinerary for our last day. Several curious friends had suggested we try the new Grand Canyon Skywalk, a glass bridge suspended 4,000 feet above the chasm. My spouse with the fear of heights had been sweating bullets over this idea, but he was willing. Then we realized it would be a 6-hour drive from the south rim (the last 14 miles on a dirt road) and would cost around $75 per person. No, thanks. (Whew!)

Instead, we retraced our route along the south rim and visited the exquisite little museum at Tusayan Ruins. Going south on US 89, we drove through Wupatki National Monument, which protects an impressive collection of Pueblo ruins within sight of Sunset Crater, an ancient volcano. Seeing the signs for the Cameron Trading Post, and needing a few more gifts, we drove a mile past our turn on SR 64 and found a treasure trove of merchandise, from Native American art to kitsch. Back at Grand Canyon Village, the Hopi House also had an impressive display, though the prices were naturally higher.
 
For dinner that night, we made reservations at the Arizona Room, where the view gets more kudos than the food. Our table was by the window, and we watched a parade of fellow tourists amble along the canyon rim, heads down, texting on phones. We were ready to be home. The next day, we’d have a 5-hour drive to the airport in Las Vegas, and then a 5-hour flight to Orlando.

As the sun slipped below the horizon, and the canyon faded in the haze, we drank a toast to what was, all told, one of the best vacations we’ve ever had, and definitely one of the most memorable.