In Memphis, barbecue borders on being a religion—a religion with legions of followers. Its disciples are many, and they worship at the multitude of barbecue joints that are the source of the tender, moist pulled pork and smoky ribs that are the city’s hallmark cuisine. Secret sauce recipes are sacred and closely guarded, not to be shared.

In the South—and Memphis is a Southern city, through and through—the word barbecue (or barbeque, bar-b-q or, in its simplest form, just BBQ) is a noun, not a verb. When someone in Memphis says, “Let’s get some barbecue,” you know they’re referring to pork. It’s accepted; that’s the way it is. If you want beef, you’re in the wrong place; get yourself on I-40 and head west toward Texas.

And anyone who has lived in Memphis for any length of time knows there are only two choices when it comes to barbecue, the two items the city is justifiably famous for: either a slab of meaty pork ribs (we’re talking spare ribs here) or a sandwich piled high with pulled pork. Your accompaniments will be baked beans (which generally include bits of the smoked meat) and slaw.

For those of you not familiar with “pulled pork,” this delicious result of the smoking process is simply the tasty, tender meat that is actually “pulled” from the smoked shoulder by hand. A pulled pork sandwich will automatically be served with a healthy helping of slaw on top of the meat, so if you have an aversion to shredded cabbage, let your waiter know. Personally, I think the slaw-topped ’cue is pretty darn perfect—the crisp coolness of the slaw is a nice counterbalance to the moist, hot barbecue.

Most historians concur that barbecue’s roots and the derivation of its name come from the Caribbean, where the Taino people used the word barbacoa, meaning “sacred fire pit,” a reference to a device, similar to a grill, for slow-cooking meat. And truly good Memphis barbecue is labor- and time-intensive—slow-cooked over coals and wood kept smoldering around 200 degrees, often for 12 hours or more. It’s the resulting smoke that gives the meat is characteristic flavor.

You can’t discuss Memphis-style barbecue, though, without mentioning the divide in how ribs should be cooked. There are two schools, the “wet” rib aficionados and the fans of “dry” ribs. When most people think of ribs, they’re picturing the “wet” version, where the meat is liberally basted with a mild, slightly sweet sauce. “Dry” ribs, on the other hand, are rubbed before cooking with a mixture of spices and seasonings, which often include paprika, black and/or cayenne pepper, garlic powder, salt, cumin and maybe a touch of sugar. The rub is usually applied the day before grilling, allowing the meat to absorb the flavors. Some devotees also sprinkle additional rub on just before the ribs come out of the smoker. Dry ribs are often served with sauce on the side. Not many people know this, but ours is a mixed marriage. My husband prefers his ribs “dry,” while I order mine “wet.”

A popular way to keep the meat moist while it slow cooks is the use of a “mop,” a thin liquid, usually with a vinegar base, that includes many of the same ingredients used in the rub. This runny sauce is literally “mopped” (envision a small kitchen mop) or sopped over the pork frequently as it cooks. A well-seasoned mop imparts additional flavor to the meat.

Memphis restaurateurs, appreciating the city’s love of good barbecue, utilize the product in several nontraditional ways. As a teenager growing up in Memphis, a favorite hangout after a date was Coletta’s Italian Restaurant, where a group of us would share a barbecue pizza, which is a traditional cheese pizza topped with shredded barbecue and sauce. If you like barbecue and you like pizza, it’s a match made in heaven. By the way, Elvis was a big fan of these pies.

Or, if you want to go out to eat but can’t make up your mind between barbecue and Italian, have both. Order barbecue spaghetti, a plate of regular spaghetti noodles covered with a hybrid barbecue/spaghetti sauce to which chopped barbecue has been added. Yum! Barbecue salad is another option. This is similar to a chef’s salad, but with barbecue instead of ham and turkey. Barbecue sauce and/or salad dressing are drizzled over the meat. Would you believe barbecue nachos? Why not? Imagine tortilla chips, barbecue with sauce, a sprinkling of dry rub, cheese sauce and jalapeños. Only in Memphis.

All that is holy in Memphis barbecue is celebrated each spring during the month-long Memphis in May International Festival. One of the festival’s highlights is the Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest, affectionately known as the “Super Bowl of Swine.” Contestants from around the world gather in Tom Lee Park on the banks of the Mississippi River to compete in this prestigious event. And upwards of 100,000 people join them. Dense, heavenly, hickory-scented smoke hangs heavy over the proceedings where for 3 days more than 250 teams with names such as The Pig Lebowski, Any Pork in a Storm, The Hogfather, Aporkalypse Now and Pork Fiction don creative costumes, decorate their tents and smoke away. Plan your travel now!

Memphians are fussy about their barbecue, and they have a right to be. With so many restaurants serving such good ’cue, it’s no wonder. So where do you go in Memphis for some good barbecue? Well, the Rendezvous has been around since 1948 and their dry ribs are legendary. So are their waiters, many of whom have worked there for decades. The restaurant is in an alley across from the equally legendary Peabody Memphis hotel. The original Corky’s is “out East” (as the locals would say) on Poplar Avenue (US 72). You can’t go wrong here; Corky’s serves both wet and dry ribs as well as really good barbecue sandwiches. Be forewarned: The place can get really crowded and parking is at a premium.

Somewhat newer to the barbecue scene, Central BBQ, which began dishing up their award-winning barbecue, ribs and hot wings in 2002, has a loyal and dedicated following. Fans of television’s Food Network might want to check out the menu at Neely’s Bar-B-Que, the home base of Pat and Gina Neely of “Down Home with the Neelys.” Or, if you find yourself near the suburb of Germantown, by all means have a meal at Germantown Commissary. Near the railroad tracks in a former country store, the ambiance here is rustic and cozy, and the barbecue is outstanding.

You could ask 10 Memphians for their favorite barbecue place, and you’d probably get 10 different answers. And they’d probably all be exceptional. Here’s a hint, though. Can you smell the meat smoking as you approach the restaurant? That’s one sure way to tell if the barbecue is going to be good.

In my humble opinion, at least, Memphis barbecue can certainly be classified as divine. Finding your own favorite place to worship the city’s signature fare is one of the highlights of a trip to this fair city.