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Washington D.C. Bookstores: Whiling Away a Winter Afternoon

Submitted by Greg Weekes, January 28, 2010
Kramerbooks in D.C.
   
Washington is a great city when it comes to independent bookstores. Oh sure, I enjoy wandering around Borders just like everyone else, but most Borders stores are basically the same. If I can find something with more idiosyncratic character, I’m there. Here’s two I like - one an old favorite and one a new discovery.

The new discovery, Politics and Prose at 5015 Connecticut Avenue, has actually been around since the mid-1980s, and I really don’t know how it slipped under my radar when I lived in northern Virginia. Despite the name, the store has books about cooking, gardening and travel as well as economic policy, current events and international studies. There are lots of children’s books, lots of fiction titles, and classical CDs for as low as $3.98 if you need to fill a gap in your Beethoven or Mozart collection.

Politics and Prose embraces cozy—wooden shelves stacked with books, old wooden tables and chairs scattered around, Politics and Proseand an inviting coffeehouse on the lower level. On the sound system Willie Nelson was warbling “The Nearness of You.” It’s the kind of place where you’ll find a photo essay of painter Mary Cassatt next to The Complete Works of William Shakespeare next to The Essential Guide to Psychiatric Drugs in the on-sale section.

The current books section was up to the minute (oversize coffee table book The Art of Avatar) and appealingly offbeat (The Legs Are the Last to Go, a memoir by singer and Tony Award winner Diahann Carroll.)  My purchase here was a postcard featuring a vintage black-and-white image of Colette (French novelist Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette) circa 1951; she wrote Gigi, a novel on which the stage and movie musicals of the same name were based.

Since it was a sunny, not-too-cold Sunday afternoon I decided to take a sprightly walk down Connecticut Avenue from Politics and Prose toward Dupont Circle, a stretch that runs through a residential section of Upper Northwest filled with big brick apartment buildings. The twin stone lions flanking the Connecticut Avenue entrance to the National Zoo still had red holiday bows tucked between their haunches. And it wasn’t long before I reached the old favorite, Kramerbooks & afterwords cafe.

Inside KramerbooksKramerbooks is not only a local institution; it’s also the only bookstore I can think of with the aroma of sizzling burgers as a backdrop. afterwords cafe has a full-service breakfast, lunch and dinner menu, it’s open 24 hours and there’s live music Friday and Saturday nights. There’s also a narrow bar adjoining the cafe where you can belly up or sit at one of four small tables along the wall. Day or night, it’s a popular Dupont Circle hangout.

This is a smaller, more congested bookstore than Politics and Prose. Instead of Nelson’s folksy Americana, The Jam’s Who-influenced, old-school ’70s punk was playing when I walked in. This inspired me to check out the music section, where I found The Complete Annotated Grateful Dead Lyrics (complete with appropriately freaky illustrations). A book with even more browsing potential was 1,000 Recordings to Hear Before You Die by Tom Moon, which includes a brief appraisal of each disc by the author. This one I had to check out. A quick perusal turned up Cream’s “Disraeli Gears,” Patti Smith’s “Horses,” Pere Ubu’s “Dub Housing,” “Exile on Main Street” by the Stones and “Kind of Blue” by Miles Davis. Just for the record, I heartily concur Kramerbooks on Connecticutwith each of these choices.

It’s comforting to know that in an era where Kindle is supplanting the printed page and chains are threatening the existence of independents (Seattle’s legendary Elliott Bay Book Company is relocating after 36 years in business at Pioneer Square), some bookstores—you know, those places where people really care about books—are thriving.   We also posted a blog about a Lahaina bookstore, let’s hear about some of your own favorites.  

Politics and Prose is at 5015 Connecticut Ave. N.W. Take Metro’s Red Line to the Van Ness station; the bookstore is about a 15-minute walk north (look for the purple awning). Kramerbooks & afterwords is at 1517 Connecticut Ave., across from the Dupont Circle Metro station (Q Street exit).
AAA.com's Washington D.C. Travel Guide provides detailed information about the Washington area including things to see and do in and around the city. It provides a destination overview, suggested activities, restaurants, attractions and nightlife, and top picks and recommendations from AAA's professional travel editors.

About the Author

  • Image Greg Weekes

    Greg Weekes is a Development Editor whose 37-year AAA career includes more than 20 years of experience in travel writing with AAA Publishing. Blessed (or is that cursed?) with an enormous...


Comments (2)

Submitted by Amy C., January 29. 2010 08:51
I live in Orlando where idependent bookstores are pretty much nonexistent. The exception is UrbanThink, on Central downtown, which has a great little cafe and very helpful staff. You can order books from their website for about $1 more than the Amazon price and pick them up at the store to save on shipping. This is also a good spot for book signings where you can actually spend a few minutes talking to the author rather than being queued up and rushed through like an assembly line.

Since I'm a comic book junkie, I also have my favorite independent comic book store--A Comic Shop at the corner of Semoran and University blvds. These guys are friendly, funny and not comic snobs. They don't sell back issues or tons of toys, so the message that this is a place for readers, not collectors, is pretty clear.
Submitted by Greg Weekes, January 29. 2010 16:17
Thanks for your comment, Amy. I live in the Orlando area as well and aside from Urban Think, the "City Beautiful" (I put that in quotes because I've never really understood on what merits it deserves that particular nickname) is an independent bookstore wasteland. I'm not familiar with A Comic Shop, so I'll have to check that out. But unfortunately you have to go elsewhere for the independent bookstore experience. If you're ever in Portland, OR you must go to Powell's City of Books. It has to be one of the best bookstores I've ever been to. The browsing potential is almost unlimited; it's very easy to spend an entire afternoon there.

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